FutureDerm

Product Review: shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift Smoothing Anti-Wrinkle Essence

Share Article

031508-shu-uemura-smoothing-anti-wrinkle-emulsion.jpg

Are you a recovered sugar-addict who has regrets about her candy-coatedd past? Or do you still indulge in the sweet stuff and worry about what it could be doing to your skin? (Thanks to the existence of Tootsie Roll Pops, I admit to being in the latter category). Well, fear no more. Although excess sugar consumption leads to advanced glycation endproduct formation and hardened collagen, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence ($95.00, Nordstrom.com) helps to prevent this process, and additionally firms skin by stimulating the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).

What exactly does shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift do for the skin?

shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is one of several L’Oréal company products to contain xylose (also known as Pro-XylaneTM), which reduces lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) within the skin. Glycosaminoglycans are found primarily in the dermis of the skin. The major purpose of GAGs is to defend against water loss, as they bind large quantities of water, up to 1000 times their volume. For this reason, GAGs are also known as “natural moisturizing factors,” or NMFs (for more, see here). Most studies show that GAGs, such as hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate decrease with age; however, some studies found no change in the amount of GAGs in aged skin. If in fact the majority of research is correct and GAGs do in fact decrease in aged skin, then changes in skin due to loss of GAGs may include decreased elasticity, decreased turgidity, and wrinkling. According to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, L’Oréal scientists found that when xylose was applied to the skin, the skin held more moisture, stimulated collagen production, and generated the production of new GAGs within the skin. (For even more on xylose, click here.)

shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is distinct from other products containing xylose because it takes the fight against aged collagen one step further with the inclusion of black tea. Black tea has been found in this study to prevent glycation-produced cross-linking of collagen in the aorta of rats, and has also been shown in this study to be protective against UVB-induced photodamage in mice.  According to a company release I was mailed, the type of black tea extract used in the line is kombucha, a Japanese black tea that has been consumed for over 2000 years.

Finally, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence treats age spots with the inclusion of molasses extract. Molasses extract has been found to inhibit the enzyme that is responsible for age spots, as Dr. David H. McDaniel, director of the Institute of Anti-Aging in Virginia Beach, states in the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “…shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”

What do the experts say?

As Dr. David H. McDaniel states in Allure magazine, “It hits on a lot of the key things that are important for anti-aging, such as stimulating collagen and GAGs. What extends it from being just a wrinkle cream is that it also targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”

What do people who have tried it say?

After trying shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, I find it to have a milky texture and slight scent. It drinks into the skin and absorbs quickly. Immediately after application, skin feels smooth and soft. The micro-silica in the product also helps to reflect the light and create the illusion of smoother skin sooner.

According to Hannah Morrill for the same article in in Allure, “It felt smooth and cool, and after three weeks the freckles on our nose and the lines on our forehead are less visible.”

What other products are available in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line?

There are three other products in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line. The company advises to buy three of the four products and use them in a specific order.

031808-radiance-boosting-step-1.jpg

The first is shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Radiance Boosting Lotion ($45.00, Nordstrom.com), which the company advises to be used before the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence. It contains alpha hydroxy acids and fruit extracts to “prepare the skin.”

031808-essence.jpg

The second step is the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, reviewed above.

031808-cream.jpg 031808-emulsion.jpg

The third step is either the shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream (for normal to dry skin) or shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion (for normal to oily skin).  shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream for normal to oily skin contains a lipid compound that is highly moisturizing, in addition to the Pro-XylaneTM, black tea, and molasses extract found in shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence.  shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion contains ginkgo biloba instead of lipids, so as to not over-moisturize oily skin.  According to a 1997 study in Skin Pharmacology, ginkgo biloba increases collagen production of human skin fibroblasts in vitro, and additionally assists in reducing skin inflammation.

Personal Opinions

As far as anti-aging skin care goes, there seems to be the most research in favor of sunscreen, antioxidants, and retinoids.  However, firming ingredients like xylane (in this line), DMAE, and wheat protein are appearing in a multitude of different products.  If you eat right, exercise, wear sunscreen, use antioxidants & retinoids and still have concerns about facial firmness, then, based on what I have read, I think shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence can help with firming the skin somewhat and preventing collagen loss down the road.

Personally, I like the idea of using shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence because I have a bit of a sweet tooth and wouldn’t mind being able to prevent some advanced glycation endproducts from forming.  However, I personally wouldn’t find it necessary to buy the whole line (again, this is just a personal opinion).  I would choose the Radiance Boosting Lotion if I most wanted the exfoliating benefits of a light AHA treatment, the Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence if I were most concerned with age spots, the Anti-Wrinkle Cream if my skin were dry, and the Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion if my skin were sensitive.

Overall, I love the whole line, and I give it a solid 9/10 (-1 for no sunscreen in any of the products!)

You might also like

Product Review: Relastin Eye Silk

Accredited in [easyazon_link identifier=”0553383302″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]The Skin Type Solution[/easyazon_link] by one of my idols, Dr. Leslie Baumann (director, Division of Cosmetic Dermatology and Assistant Professor of

About Myself

Nicki Zevola is the founder and editor-in-chief of FutureDerm.com. Named one of the top 30 beauty bloggers in the world by Konector.com since 2009, Nicki

#Mindey

@mindey