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Recently, a PR agency for Exuviance mailed me the Exuviance Targeted Filler T5 ($60.00, Amazon.com). The filler contains brightening glucosamine and palmitoyl oligopeptide (also known as Matrixyl) in a unique syringe-like applicator that helps to fill wrinkles as it corrects them. For what the science says, read on.
N-acetyl glucosamine is an ingredient that has been proven to treat hyperpigmentation (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2006). Its effects are significant in hydrating skin as well, as glucosamine is a precursor to hyaluronic acid that has been shown to increase hyaluronic acid production in the skin after regular topical application (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2006). It has a very high safety profile.
Glucosamine may work best in conjunction with niacinamide, which is found in Olay products, as well as our own FutureDerm Super Moisturizer. According to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, a double-blind, placebo-controlled, left-right randomized study found that n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide used in conjunction on one side of the face are more effective than glucosamine alone in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
Glucosamine has a high safety profile. The aforementioned study also found that n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide have high tolerance in the skin, and thus should not cause irritation in most formulations.
In Exuviance Targeted Filler T5, glucosamine is found in high concentration. The concentration is not listed, but is as high as I have seen in skin care products (estimated 4%).
Of all the peptides in all the world, palmitoyl oligopeptide walks into every favorite list of mine. What is great about palmitoyl oligopeptide is that it significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).
However, it does take a long time. You’re looking at at least six to eight weeks of nightly use before you see results. Collagen production with peptides takes time!
Best for Dark Spots, Not Wrinkles
For being backed up by science for hyperpigmentation and hydration, this product has some really God-awful reviews (and a few raves) on Ulta. But here’s the thing: This product is marketed for fine lines and wrinkles as a filler, which gives the impression that it is going to replicate the dermatologist coming at you with a syringe full of Juvederm. Even the syringe applicator replicates that.
Truth be told, this product should be called Targeted Dark Spot/Hyperpigmentation Lightener. It is true the peptide will help to firm the skin, but you will admittedly get faster anti-wrinkle effects from products with retinoids, glycolic acid, malic acid, and/or peels containing one of these.
Loved it for Dark Post-Surgical Scar Lines
My jaw was unhinged when I was 18, and I had to have a lower corrective jaw surgery. It left me with these dark lines around the sides of my mouth that I was always buying concealer two shades lighter to disguise. Granted, after years of religious skin care use, the lines have lightened, but Exuviance Targeted Filler T5 helped after a few weeks to lighten the lines further. I really appreciated the fact that it was a syringe-like applicator that made application really precise — last thing I wanted to do was lighten the entire area around the lines!
Exuviance Targeted Filler T5 is sensational under make-up and when used to treat dark spots or post-surgical scar lines. I am not a huge fan of it for fine lines and wrinkles as a filler, but it will present some results with religious use for at least eight weeks in that regard as well.