Arguably one of the most luxurious skin care brands in the world, SK-II has humble beginnings.
Beginning at a sake brewery in Japan, staff noticed the elderly workers had wrinkled faces but extraordinarily soft and youthful-looking hands— thanks to Pitera™, a naturally derived liquid from the sake fermentation process.
Since then, Pitera™ has been cultivated into SK-II skin care, and the rest is history. Most identifiable by spokesperson Cate Blanchett and the unmistakable red and clear bottles, SK-II has cultivated a brand known for improving texture, radiance, firmness, spot control, and wrinkles over the past 30 years. The best-selling SK-II products include the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, Essential Power Cream, and the Cellumination Essence.
But how does it work? Does it work well over time? Can it be used in conjunction with other potent anti-agers, like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin C? For more, read on…
The Main Ingredient: SK-II Pitera™
Fermentation is a nifty process in which organisms produce energy when oxygen levels are low. Pitera™ is a part of the byproducts produced as a special yeast undergoes fermentation. Pitera™ is different than other yeast you may see on labels, like S. cerevisiae: “Pitera™ uses an exclusive yeast while other skincare brands are based on yeast from beer,” according to Takashi Yoshii, senior manager for Global Technical Marketing at the Procter & Gamble Kobe Technical Center.
Research demonstrates yeast is an excellent source of peptides, amino acids, proteins, carbohydrates and nucleic acids (Household and Personal Products Industry). Peptides of varied kinds have been shown to stimulate collagen production and firm the skin (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Dermatologic Therapy), while amino acids have been shown to also stimulate collagen, as well as fight wrinkles, enhance wound healing, increase the skin’s production of anti-microbial peptides, and boost UV protection (European Journal of Dermatology, Journal of Peptide Science, PLoS Pathogens, Pharmaceuticals, Wilderness and Environmental Damage, JPEN, Eksp Klin Pharmacol,, Minerva Pediatrica). Whew!
SK-II Pitera™ may also be deeply soothing and hydrating. Yeast fermentation has been shown to increase the activity of components of the skin known as polygalacturonases (PGNs). One common PGN in skin care is allantoin, which is normally soothing for the skin. So it is no surprise, then, that women often say SK-II is soothing for their skin.
There is limited research (by the company behind SK-II) attesting that Pitera™ increases the production of hyaluronic acid naturally within the skin. Since hyaluronic acid is naturally found within the skin but its synthesis normally decreases with age, this is considered to be a unique way to address the problem of aging — and to make your skin feel more instantly hydrated!
Can SK-II Pitera™ Be Used with Other Beneficial Skin Care Ingredients?
I have a couple of rules for skin care: Don’t mix retinoids with acids. (Retinol, an inactive compound, is converted to its active form at a slightly acidic-to-neutral pH range within the skin.) Don’t mix retinoids with benzoyl peroxide. (One inactivates the other). And so on. [Read more: 3 Surprising Combinations of Ingredients You Might Not Want to Use Together]
Most SK-II products combine the acidic Pitera™ with higher-pH ingredients, leading most of the SK-II product line to be in a skin-friendly, just slightly-acidic pH range.
Here are some tips for using SK-II Pitera™ with other skin care ingredients:
- Because SK-II Pitera™ products may be mildly exfoliating, owing to the slightly acidic pH, you may wish to alternate days or times between SK-II and applying concentrated retinoid or alpha hydroxy acid treatments, vitamin C serums, or any other exfoliant. For instance, you may wish to apply SK-II Pitera™ products in the AM, and the retinoids or AHAs in the PM. Or SK-II Pitera™ products on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, and your normal regimen Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
- SK-II Pitera™ products may be used in conjunction with botanical ingredients, peptides, amino acids, sodium hyaluronate/hyaluronic acid, and sunscreen, without an issue for most persons.
- SK-II Pitera™ products should not make you more photosensitive, unlike many anti-aging lines out there. For best results, still use in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.
- If you experience burning, redness, or extreme tingling, introduce just one SK-II Pitera™ product at a time.
In general, this product line is gentle, and should not cause a problem.
My Favorite Product
From inspection, my favorite product in the line is the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence ($137.99, Amazon.com) which seems to contain the highest concentration of Saccharomycopsis Yeast Ferment Filtrate (Pitera), as well as sodium hyaluronate.
Sodium hyaluronate is often used in place of hyaluronic acid. Derived from the same compound, sodium hyaluronate is preferred by many cosmetic chemists for its greater stability in skin care products.
Both sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid act as natural moisturizing factors, drawing water into the skin. This has two immediate effects: First, it reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) across the skin. Secondly, sodium hyaluronate almost immediately creates a slight swelling of the skin, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles a bit.
There is speculation sodium hyaluronate may have long-term anti-aging effects as well: according to Dr. Howard Murad, regular hydration of the skin with NMFs allows the skin to operate at optimum capacity, so it can utilize its energy to provide a better defense against environmental assaults.
Bottom Line
SK-II products, featuring the SK-II Pitera™, are amazing.
I particularly like the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence for use after cleansing. Research suggests fermentative yeast extract provides skin with essential proteins, amino acids, peptides, and other nutrients, and the sodium hyaluronate is proven to beautify and hydrate the skin.
Because SK-II Pitera™ products may be mildly exfoliating, you may wish to alternate between applying SK-II products and concentrated retinoid or alpha hydroxy acid treatments, salicylic acid treatments, vitamin C serums, or any other exfoliating or strongly acidic products. However, SK-II Pitera™ products may be used in conjunction with botanical ingredients, peptides, amino acids, sodium hyaluronate/hyaluronic acid, and sunscreen, without an issue for most persons.
Definitely an awesome sponsor for the 2015 New York Fashion Week! I’m in full support. Love.
Product Rating of SK-II Facial Treatment Essence: 8/9 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3.)
Ingredients in SK-II Facial Treatment Essence
Water, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene GlycoI, Cellulose Gum, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Methylparaben, Sodium