Why Skin Care Junkies Often Have Dermatitis – And What to Do About It

Dermatitis is a prevalent skin care condition, affecting about 3.5% of the population, or about 1 in every 30 people. It’s technically defined by dryness and recurring skin rashes that are characterized by one or more of these symptoms: redness, skin swelling, itching and dryness, crusting, flaking, blistering, cracking, oozing, or bleeding (Wikipedia).

Dermatitis may be one of two kinds: atopic dermatitis, which is more about dry skin, and contact dermatitis, which is broken into irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, and which is characterized by a skin rash or irritation at a site where the skin has been in direct contact with an allergen (Cosmetic Dermatology).

However, at an increasing rate, more and more people are noticing minor cases of dermatitis of both types, atopic and contact dermatitis.

“You can have itchy, sensitized, sometimes painful skin, but you may not see any visible signs of redness on the skin,” explains Annet King, senior director of global education for Dermalogica and the International Dermal Institute (NewBeauty). “For example, say you go out to lunch on a warm day and when you come back into the office, your skin feels warm and possibly a little itchy and then you apply a product, perhaps some powder or SPF/foundation that your skin normally never reacts to, but suddenly it stings and feels like it burns you.”

I think all skin care fanatics have experienced this after using one product or another, and King says it’s dermatitis. “That’s invisible dermatitis or sensitized skin caused by the environment (sun and pollution are common ones); also in darker skins you can’t always see redness so you have to feel for it and the skin will feel warm.”

What Causes Dermatitis?

Dermatitis is the result of a damaged skin barrier. Dry skin in particular is the result of decreased water content in the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin) (Cosmetic Dermatology). Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. states the enzymes necessary for skin cells to properly separate are impaired when water levels in the skin are insufficient. This results in “clumps” of skin cells, or keratinocytes, that cause the skin to appear rough and dry.

Dry skin also results in increased amounts of fatty acids and decreased amounts of ceramides within the skin (Nonimmunologic Contact Urticaria).

The result of impaired skin with “clumps” of dry skin cells, increased amounts of fatty acids, and decreased amounts of ceramides? Impaired barrier function, meaning the skin has a harder time retaining moisture and defending itself. “That can lead to more irritants entering and more TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss),” King says. “Long-term effects are [inflammation-induced aging]—premature aging related to inflammation.”

Why Do Skin Care Junkies Get Dermatitis?

Skin care fanatics in particular often get dermatitis because they are often trying a multitude of different skin care products without expert guidance.

Applying certain combinations of ingredients can be irritating. For instance, don’t use niacinamide with vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid). In the presence of UV light, niacinamide and L-ascorbic acid can form a 1:1 complex that turns the solution yellow, rendering both compounds useless, as well as hydrogen peroxide, a known pro-oxidative compound. Hydrogen peroxide can be irritating and sensitizing to the skin.

Applying skin care products in certain locations of the face can also be irritating. Heightened sensitivity is often noticed near or in the nasolabial folds, where there are differences in the lipid bilayers from the rest of the face, as well as a large number of sensory nerves (Cosmetic Dermatology). Another location that proves difficult for many persons is the area near the eyes, which is markedly thin from regular use, and contains fewer oil-producing glands than the rest of the face.

A final reason why skin care junkies get dermatitis is because they increasingly adamantly refuse to use petrolatum, mineral oil, or other occlusive agents. Although there is a vicious rumor that these ingredients prevent the skin from breathing, dermatologists dismiss this altogether. In fact, dermatologists regularly use petrolatum or mineral oil on the nasolabial folds, around the eyes, and even on the delicate side creases of the nose prior to chemical peels or laser treatments to prevent water loss and hence to lower the risk of irritation during the procedures (Cosmetic Dermatology).

How To Prevent Dermatitis

Here are some basic rules for skin care junkies to prevent dermatitis:

1. Only introduce one new skin care product at a time, so you can ascertain what is causing irritation. If you develop stinging, redness, burning, flaking, increasing dryness, or any other form of irritation, discontinue use of the product. (Bonus points if you save your receipt and can bring it back!)
2. Use a skin care mask nightly with one or more of the following barrier-repairing ingredients: Petrolatum, mineral oil, sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, cholesterol, jojoba oil, olive oil, or coconut oil. Use the mask after you apply a serum to lock in the serum and the remaining moisture in your skin.
3. Be careful near the sensitive portions of your face: Nasolabial folds, the creases on each side of the nose, and around the eyes (both upper and lower eyelids). If you notice irritation on these portions of your face, use hydrating products specially formulated for the eyes on each of those locations, or use a hydrating balm before you apply a concentrated and/or potentially-irritating agent.
4. Be cautious of the weather, foods you eat, and underlying conditions. Sensitivity is often heightened for all persons in cases of extreme heat, cold, humidity, and high winds. Foods that induce inflammation, such as spicy foods, fatty/fried foods, and nearly all dairy, should be eliminated or reduced as much as possible. Finally, rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis may be the cause of your condition if the symptoms don’t go away, so keep a dermatologist on call, just in case!
5. Avoid skin care products with propylene glycol, benzoic acid, hydroxy acids, and ethanol. While I think propylene glycol and ethanol are great skin care penetration enhancers, benzoic acid is a decent preservative, and hydroxy acids are the bomb for wrinkles and anti-aging, these are also the four ingredients most associated with dermatitis (Cosmetic Dermatology). So if your skin is irritated but you want to continue using great skin care, start by removing only the products with these ingredients.

Bottom Line

With more skin care products and ingredients on the market today than ever before, dermatologists seem to be seeing more cases of dermatitis than ever before. It’s important to stay aware of products, ingredients, and ingredient combinations that can be irritating to your skin, as well as to avoid using concentrated agents on known delicate locations of your face.