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Spotlight On: Idebenone

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Idebenone is a potent antioxidant that is included in a variety of Elizabeth Arden (and affiliates) products, including the new Prevage Anti-Aging Night Cream ($125.00, Amazon.com), as well as in a concentration of 1% in PrevageMD (available from selected physicians’ offices).  According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone is a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10 that neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from UV-induced reactive oxidative species. For more information on this antioxidant powerhouse, read on.

Is idebenone effective against signs of aging?

Yes. According to a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After six weeks’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. Measurements taken included evaluation by a blinded grader expert and electrical gradient measurements.

How does the antioxidant capacity of idebenone compare to that of other antioxidants?

Idebenone has significant strength amongst antioxidants, but it is not the most potent antioxidant available.

Idebenone is more effective as at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,

Unfortunately, according to a second 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone is less effective at reducing directly scavenging free radicals and in protecting cells from UV-induced reactive oxidative species than L-ergothioneine (EGT), a stable antioxidant found in food plants as well as in animal tissue. L-ergothioniene is available in Remergent Skin Clarifying Skin Brightener ($65.00, Remergent.com). In addition, according to a 2007 review in Dermatologic Therapy, Coffeeberry has been reported to be the most potent antioxidant as measured by the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance score). CoffeeBerry is available in RevaléSkin products ($110.00 each, RevaleSkin.com).

However, despite the fact that there are more potent antioxidants, idebenone still has been touted for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties as a part of a daily skin care regime, according to a 2008 report in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Overall…

An excellent antioxidant, although there are more potent antioxidants currently out there on the skin care market, such as EGT and Coffeeberry.  At any rate, idebenone has proven effective in treating skin roughness, restoring hydration to the skin, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles somewhat, in addition to its potent antioxidant capacities.  For a user’s review of the new Prevage Anti-Aging Night Cream with idebenone, please visit the review on the 15 Minute Beauty blog, written by a physician.  🙂

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