Most of the time, I’ll admit it: I’m not usually a fan of combination treatments. I think it all stems from 2-in-1 shampoos and conditioners – have you ever tried one of these even half as effective as a separate shampoo and conditioner?! But I digress. Every once in a while, a product comes along that makes me change my mind. Ever since NEOVA sent me a sample of NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45 ($39.00, Neova.com) in November, I’ve been really impressed with this daytime treatment and sunscreen powerhouse. Here’s why:
Two DNA Repair Enzymes Proven to Penetrate the Skin
One of the reasons I am typically against treatments with advanced-sounding claims is because, quite frankly, they’re usually not true. In the case of most products containing DNA enzymes, I am skeptical because these products usually do not have delivery systems that would be able to effectively deliver the ingredients deep within the skin cell, where the nucleus (and the majority of DNA) are housed. However, NEOVA uses a liposomal delivery system, encapsulating DNA repair enzymes in small encapsulated particles that are able to penetrate the skin. According to an in-house study from PhotoMedex, the parent company of NEOVA, the photolysosomes and endosomes in their products have been shown to increase UV protection by 300% and to reduce dimers in the skin caused by UVB radiation by 45% (source). Pretty impressive!
The enzymes found in NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45 are naturally found within the skin, but most assuredly deplete with age (Gerontology, 1991). Photolyase reverses DNA damage in cells and prevents cell death caused by UV exposure. According to the text The New Science of Perfect Skin, liposome-encapsulated photolyase is delivered to the skin within an hour of application. It requires light for its activation, though any mild indoor light that passes through sunscreen should be enough for it to work properly. On the other hand, endosomes speed recovery and reduce the appearance of post-sunburn peeling. Together, both help to strengthen the sun protection in NEOVA products.
As for whether or not the photolyase and endosomes in NEOVA products could potentially harm the cell’s DNA, I called in Dr. Helen Torok, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist for twenty-five years and the current Medical Director at Trillium Creek Dermatology in Medina, OH, who is familiar with NEOVA products. Of potential damage to cellular DNA, she says, “We cannot say with complete certainty but most likely not. The DNA repair enzymes detect DNA damage, remove the damage and then assist the body’s own natural repair mechanisms in restoring healthy DNA. The body can do this on its own, but repeated sun exposure – whether or not a sunburn forms – lessens the skin’s ability to repair itself. The DNA repair enzymes help to promote the recovery process.”
Green Tea
I’m a little sad that green tea has fallen out of fashion as the “hot” ingredient in skin care. From soothing to hydrating to providing antioxidant protection, green tea does it all. Derived from the steaming and drying of the tea plant Camellia sinesis, green tea extracts called polyphenols have been shown to have remarkable preventive effects against photocarcinogenesis (UV-induced cancer) and phototoxicity in mouse models. In a 2001 study in the journal Carcinogenesis, topical application of green tea extracts to human skin resulted in an increase in antioxidant enzymes (and decrease in oxidation) after UV irradiation. A third study, this in Molecular Epidemiology and Cancer Prevention, found that green tea prevents against the depletion in antioxidant enzymes experienced after UVB exposure in mouse skin. Pretty phenomenal. The fact that NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45 contains a high concentration of green tea – second only to water – makes me really excited to review this product!
Aloe vera
I also happen to loooove aloe vera, which is next on the ingredients list. For decades, it has been widely believed that aloe helps treat severely dry skin or wound healing. However, neither of these have been conclusively proven by medical science. One study (International Journal of Radiation Oncology, 1996) shows aloe does help dry skin, another study (Sylvester Comprehensive Medical Center) finds that only very high concentrations of aloe make an impact. As for wound healing, in a comprehensive review of ten aloe vera-associated studies, researchers could not decide whether or not aloe really does help wounds to heal.
So why do I love aloe vera? Simple: it’s soothing and anti-inflammatory, in a way that many studies have confirmed. Aloe vera’s efficacy as an anti-inflammatory ingredient was verified in a study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, and according to a 1999 review of ten aloe vera-related studies, aloe might be effective for healing flare-ups of genital herpes and psoriasis as well.
Personal Use and Opinions
NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45 is suitable for all skin types except oily, due to the inclusion of sunflower oil and lack of mattefiers. (For the best sunscreens for oily/acne-prone skin, please see this post.) NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45 goes on smooth, absorbs well, and leaves a finish suitable for applying make-up. It also does not burn upon application. It dries clear, without any white finish, due to the small particles of titanium oxide included.
Bottom Line
I absolutely love NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45. It’s an almost ironic product in its efficiency: it has physical sunscreen titanium oxide to prevent UV rays from penetrating the skin, but it contains a whopping one-two-three punch against any sun damage in the past, present, and future, with liposomal DNA repair enzymes, healing antioxidant green tea, and soothing anti-inflammatory powerhouse aloe vera. It’s definitely one of my favorites!
Product Rating: 10/10 (High or optimized concentration of clinically proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
Ingredients in NEOVA DNA Damage Control™ Silc Sheer SPF 45
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 3.5%, Octinoxate 6.5%.
Inactive Ingredients: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Octyl Stearate, Cyclomethicone, Isopropyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Micrococcus Lysate, Plankton Extract, Xanthophyll, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Squalane, Lecithin, Silica, Hydrated Silica, Microcrystalline Wax, Cetyl Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Melanin, Caramel, Iron Oxides, CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492.
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In accordance with the FutureDerm.com review policy, I was compensated financially for a review of my choice by NEOVA (i.e., Photomedix, Inc.). I do not accept financial compensation for a review of products that I do not honestly approve of beforehand. Companies are informed of this policy before payment. This is to maintain full honesty between companies, myself, and the readers. Thank you.