Occasionally there are little known secrets that make your life easier: furniture is best to buy in February; it’s best to go on a run in the afternoon; warm milk may encourage insomnia, not sleep. When running something like a daily beauty blog, there are also little known secrets encountered here and there, including some excellent little-known skin care ingredients:
1. Papain
Papain, also known as papaya proteinase-1, is a really exciting protein due to its inclusion of proteolytic (i.e., protein-digesting) enzymes. As skin aesthetician and cosmetologist Zia Wesley-Howard says in The Complete Book of Enzyme Therapy, “Enzymes gently yet thoroughly dissolve old skin cells without dissolving new ones or harming the skin.”
Where to find papain: AmorePacific Treatment Enzyme Peel, Jan Marini Zyme Green Papaya Mask
2. Spin Traps (Phenyl butyl nitrone)
Spin traps are a form of antioxidant that have the ability to catch an electron as it spins out of control and return the electron to its normal orbit before it can do any damage (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2010). Theoretically, this means you could catch a free radical before it does any damage! Studies have shown spin traps have age-reducing effects (Radiation Research, 1996), most likely due to their reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines within the skin (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2010).
Where to find spin traps: Your Best Face skincare
3. Turmeric
Turmeric is a very potent antioxidant and antiinflammatory (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 1995) that has been attributed to the relatively low cancer incidence in India (Anticancer, 2009). In skin care, turmeric may also boost UV protection of sunscreen (Dr. Nicholas Perricone, 2011), though more research needs to be done to quantify the effect.
Turmeric has never been included in many skin care products because of its intense color, strong odor, and limited stability. However, Procter & Gamble scientists announced at 2011 World Congress of Dermatology that they have been able to extract the active compound in turmeric, tetrahydrocurcumin. So we will be seeing a lot of turmeric in skin care soon (The New Skin Care Ingredient You Can’t Afford to Miss, 2011)!
Where to find turmeric: Super by Nicholas Perricone SPF 15 Sun-Kissed Tinted Moisturizer ($42.00); selected Procter & Gamble products labeled “-omics” in the following year (read more).
4. Colloidal oatmeal
Colloidal oatmeal is one of the few skin care ingredients that is regulated by the U.S. FDA. As far as calming and soothing ingredients go, colloidal oatmeal is amongst the best, improving barrier function, moisturizing, cleansing, and even containing soothing antioxidant vitamin E (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement, 2008). Colloidal oatmeal also relieves pain and itching by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis in a mechanism similar to that of the drug indomethacin (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement, 2008).
I personally love colloidal oatmeal so much, I use it everyday. After a recent allergic reaction to a new skin care product, I started to apply the Aveeno Moisturizing Bar each morning all over my face while I brush my teeth and style my hair. One rinse later, and it’s like I just had a facial: my skin is that calm and smooth. For less than $3, the Aveeno Moisturizing Bar is one amazing daily treatment I can’t live without!
Where to find colloidal oatmeal: Aveeno Moisturizing Bar, Aveeno Active Naturals Daily Moisturizing Lotion, most Aveeno products
5. Nicotinic Acid
If you’ve read FutureDerm.com for any length of time, you know I love niacinamide, the version of vitamin B3 with a high pH. (If you haven’t read FutureDerm.com for a long time, here’s the post on niacinamide). Well, an ingredient I may love even more than niacinamide is nicotinic acid, the version of vitamin B3 with a lower, more acidic pH. Why? Skin with a lower pH tends to be associated with healthier patients (pH and Skin Care, 2007). In fact, patients who have diabetes, irritant contact dermatitis, kidney disease, certain fungal infections, and an array of other illnesses all have higher skin pH in certain areas (pH and Skin Care, 2007). What’s more, the natural pH of the skin is acidic (5.0-6.0), indicating that more alkaline skin care products can be drying and irritating. Despite this, however, some alkaline skin care products still can have major benefits, such as retinoids and niacinamide.
Still, I love nicotinic acid, and have used it in the past through the NIA 24 skin care line. I personally experienced even better results with nicotinic acid than niacinamide!
Where to find nicotinic acid: NIA 24 skin care line (NIA 24 official site)
Bottom Line
Due to the rare nature of these ingredients, it’s impossible to incorporate all of them into your skin care routine at the same time. At any rate, if you’re looking for a fun new change for your skin care regime, these five ingredients are spectacular ways to do it!
If you ever have a question, please feel free to pass it to us, especially on our Facebook page or Twitter! 🙂