Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence Review

Ingredients, Reviews, Skin Care
Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence

Vitamin C is one of my top five or six picks in terms of best skin care ingredients. (The others include retinoids, AHAs, peptides, other antioxidants, and sunscreen.) Vitamin C is a choice of mine for many reasons: According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C has been found to protect against UV-induced erythema and sunburn, increase fibroblast production of collagen, and to possibly reduce wrinkle formation.

Unfortunately, one of the biggest issues with vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid is that it tends to become inactive in the presence of light, heat, and air. Even regular use of a L-ascorbic acid product without airtight packaging (such as an airtight pump) can cause the vitamin C to become darker, more yellow or orange, and crystallized or sticky — all indicators that the vitamin C has oxidized, and is hence less beneficial to the skin.

About Those Vitamin C Alternatives…

Some companies have tried to address the issue of vitamin C oxidization with other forms of vitamin C. You’ll see ingredients ranging from tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to ascorbyl glucosamine to 3-0-ethyl ascorbic acid. Truthfully, each of these tend to have their own benefits — tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate may penetrate the skin more deeply than L-ascorbic acid (Clinics in Dermatology, 2008), ascorbyl glucosamine has slightly more significant brightening properties (source) and 3-0-ethyl ascorbic acid may be more potent, ounce for ounce (indicating that you may need less for the same effects). In a clinical skin lightening test, a solution containing just 2% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was found to improve skin whitening and radiance after just 28 days of twice-daily application (Cosmetics and Toiletries) — in a manner I think is similar to 15% L-ascorbic acid.

The issues with these vitamin C alternatives, however, are numerous. First, companies who create products with vitamin C alternatives tend not to disclose the percentage of vitamin C derivative included. So whereas you can easily compare a 15% Skinceuticals L-ascorbic acid product with a 20% Dr. Dennis Gross L-ascorbic acid product, you can’t necessarily compare one tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate product to another as easily, much less compare a tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate product to a ascorbyl glucosamine product. That’s one issue.

Another issue with vitamin C derivatives are that they typically need to be converted to vitamin C within the skin. For instance, ascorbyl glucosamine needs to be broken down into L-ascorbic acid and glucosamine by enzymes found naturally within the skin in order to have any activity at all. On the other hand, L-ascorbic acid on its own has been shown to have effects, without needing to have any sort of breakdown or “activation” within the skin.

So while I like a good vitamin C derivative, I am also careful to always keep L-ascorbic acid itself in my regimen, in a concentration of at least 15%.

Why Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence Keeps Winning Awards

That’s where Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence come in. When you add a serum or moisturizer to the powder, you get fresh, unoxidized vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid, without having to worry about excessive exposure to light, heat, or air. It’s great to add to your existing lightweight serum — just cleanse and/or tone, and add this powder into the next step of your skin care regimen.

Another great benefit of Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence is that it contains a whopping 5% niacinamide — the highest concentration allowed in skin care. Niacinamide has been shown in studies to be a superior hydrator (with results similar to hyaluronic acid) and hyperpigmentation treatment (with results similar to 2% hydroquinone). It is also a fair treatment for acne and fine lines and wrinkles, although I say “fair” because the results are not, say, 10% salicylic acid + 2% benzoyl peroxide, or 0.1% retinol, respectively.

So I highly recommend Vitabrid C12 SPOT Powder and SPOT Essence and I’m proud to talk about it on the site!

Ingredients:

Active: Niacinamide 5%, Adenosine 4%, Allantoin 0.25%. Inactive: Ascorbic Acid, Zinc Oxide, Glyceryl Stearate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Serine, Betaine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water

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