Paula Begoun has been an inspiration to me for quite some time. I was nine years old – not even wearing cosmetics! – when I first picked up Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Though I was little, I had an instinct that the book would be life-impacting in some way. Little did I know that it would spark a lifelong interest in understanding the chemistry behind beauty products, including time I would spend studying in labs and medical school.
Now that I am an adult, I run a business that is similar but different from Paula Begoun’s skin care empire. I think it is my calling to talk about various topics as a blogger and author-to-be (more on that later!). I do not want to focus solely on skin care, but share my loves for fashion, nutrition, exercise, health, and mental inspiration as well. I want to evolve into more of a “personal brand.” As you may have noticed, I also focus now less on my own skin care line, though it still exists and sells!
At any rate, here are my reviews of selected products from a lifelong role model of mine, Paula Begoun. I hope that the “worst” are not taken as an insult of any kind by her or anyone on her team, but rather, just from a blogger giving her honest opinion:
Best #1: Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid – 4 oz. Skin Perfecting ($26.00, Amazon.com)
There are all kinds of toners: Clarifying, moisturizing, detoxifying. Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid is absolutely brilliant in this regard, as it contains the highest concentration of salicylic acid I have ever seen in a toner (2%) to clarify, moisturize, and detoxify the skin. It helps with the appearance of blackheads, enlarged pores, and rough skin. Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid also helps follow-up serums and moisturizers absorb into the skin better.
Salicylic acid accomplishes all of this by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure (DermNetNZ). Keratin normally is a rather rigid protein, so its loosening enables you to whisk away dry scaly skin and clean out hard-to-reach debris within the pores. Salicylic acid use may also increase cell turnover, exfoliate, and effectively renew the skin.
Traditionally, salicylic acid is used in acne treatments to cleanse and to prevent clogged pores. However, salicyclic acid is increasingly used in anti-aging treatments to refine the skin, clear out the pores, and improve the smoothness of the skin. As I said before, it also helps other ingredients penetrate the skin better, which is only enhanced by the butylene glycol in Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid.
Lastly, Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid contains the soothing antioxidant green tea. Altogether, this is a must-have, especially for those with combination normal/oily and oily skin. If your skin is dry but you still have blackheads or clogged pores, I recommend using this product over the affected areas, and waiting a minute or two before following up with a favorite serum or moisturizer.
Ingredients in Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid: Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Polysorbate-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA
Best #2: Paula’s Choice Resist Super Light Defense SPF 30 ($29.00, Amazon.com)
Paula Begoun truly knocked it out of the park with this super-amazing sunscreen. Paula’s Choice Resist Super Light Defense SPF 30 contains one of the highest concentrations of zinc oxide I have ever seen in a formula: 13%. But rather than being white, chalky, and pasty like many zinc oxide formulas, this sunscreen has amazing an slip and feel. This sunscreen also absorbs into the skin quickly, without a trace of a white finish.
Zinc oxide may very well be the most effective sunscreen there is, for two reasons:
First, zinc oxide is a physical sunscreen. Physical sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium oxide. These sunscreens prevent UV rays from hitting the skin altogether. Finis, finit, finito, UV rays!
On the other hand, sunscreens like avobenzone, oxybenzone, Parsol 1789, and Mexoryl are chemical sunscreens. These sunscreens allow UV rays to hit the skin, but will transform them into different forms of non-damaging energy, like light or heat.
I personally prefer physical sunscreens, though studies show equal amounts of application of each type of sunscreen yield the same levels of protection (British Journal of Dermatology).
Second, zinc oxide is even better than titanium dioxide. UVA and UVB rays are separated into longer UVA (UV-aging) and shorter UVB (UV-burning) categories. Zinc oxide blocks a significantly longer portion of UVA rays (UV-aging) (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology).
And forget the rumor that oxides get into your bloodstream: Precise studies [with electron microscopy] have shown only very minimal levels of micronized oxides penetrate the uppermost layer of the skin (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology). On the other hand, chemical sunscreens like oxybenzone may be absorbed in the bloodstream and secreted in detectable amounts in the urine (Cosmetic Dermatology). This is not necessarily an issue for adults – oxybenzone and other chemical sunscreens are considered widely in the cosmetic community to be safe — but for the ultra-cautious, a 13% zinc oxide formula isn’t going much of anywhere besides the outermost layer of your skin!
Ingredients in Paula’s Choice Resist Super Light Defense SPF 30: Zinc Oxide 13%, Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Lauroyl Lysine, Bisabolol, Trihydroxystearin, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract, Haemstococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Iron Oxides.
Best #3: Paula’s Choice Clinical Retinol 1.0% ($55.00, Amazon.com)
“Oh wait,” I know some of you are asking, “you’re recommending another brand’s retinol?!”
I give credit where credit is due. Though Paula’s Choice Clinical Retinol 1.0% is not stabilized through microencapsulation or esterification, it is packaged well and is strong enough for you to still get the benefits of retinol.
Retinoids are one of the most effective ingredients in skin care products today. Retinoids do everything from increasing collagen production to decreasing the appearance of wrinkles to acting as mild antioxidants.
Although over-the-counter retinol is 20x weaker than prescription, as it must be converted to its active drug form in the skin (Clinics in Dermatology), retinol use is still recommended. Dr. Ranella Hirsch, M.D. once said: “We have beautiful, profound data that shows if you use retinoids for 20 years, you’re going to look a lot better than someone who doesn’t.”
Retinol should be used at night only, in small quantity (a pea-size amount to make a thin layer on your face). Retinol also should be used in conjunction with sunscreen every morning, as retinoids/retinol make your skin more photosensitive (sensitive to the sun).
Retinol may cause redness, flaking/peeling, and possibly stinging at first. For this reason, many experts recommend using retinol products once every 2-3 nights at first for the first 2-3 weeks. The negative effects should improve as the skin acclimates to retinol, but if they worsen, the product may not be right for your skin.
At any rate, the benefits of a 1.0% retinol like Paula’s Choice Clinical Retinol 1.0% are vast, as they may be skin-smoothing, wrinkle-refining, acne-clarifying, and skin-firming. Truly a beautiful investment for your skin!
[Read more: How Retinol Works]
Ingredients in Paula’s Choice Clinical Retinol 1.0%: Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Retinol , Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ceramide 2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Arachidyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Carbomer
Worst #1: Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Acne Treatment with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide ($17.00, Amazon.com)
This product is fine as an on-the-spot treatment.
I personally never use benzoyl peroxide all over my face.
Benzoyl peroxide works in many ways on the skin, all of which are still not quite clear! One of these methods, however, is via oxidation in the follicle. That means that benzoyl peroxide is increasing levels of benzoic acid and oxidative compounds within the skin (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology). I’m not a fan of using it all over my face, but this is my opinion.
Another reason I do not use benzoyl peroxide other than as an on-the-spot treatment is because I also occasionally use hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is contraindicated for use with any products containing benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, or other peroxides, as this may cause temporary staining of the skin (Drugs.com). This staining is temporary and can typically be removed with soap and water washing, but it’s best to avoid benzoyl peroxide-based acne treatments and oxygen-infusing skin care treatments, which typically contain hydrogen peroxide.
Personally, I avoid benzoyl peroxide all over my face. When I do want to use it, I am sticking to 10% benzoyl peroxide as an on-the-spot treatment only (and where hydroquinone is NOT used!)
Ingredients in Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Acne Treatment with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide : Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5% Inactive Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, Laureth-4, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Worst #2: Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel with Quercetin and Vitamin C ($24.00, Amazon.com)
I get scars. Bad ones. Keloid scars, actually. So I’ve done a lot of reading on scars.
This product is based on the pervasive belief in dermatology that antioxidants help scars to heal. It is based on the idea that wrinkle repair is similar to wound healing. However, I do not entirely agree with this.
Research from the journal Dermatologic Surgery shows vitamin E may actually be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar. The study notes that 90% of patients’ scars were not improved and some actually worsened with use of topical vitamin E oil. (Vitamin E is one of the ingredients in Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel, though not in high concentration).
As for the reasons for the worsening of scars with vitamin E: The study cites irritation or allergic reaction (contact dermatitis), and I also believe it may have something to do with the fact that vitamin E is a known blood-thinner.
Though Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel contains a low concentration of vitamin E, I still avoid it for scars. I don’t believe that wounds heal or scars clear up by the same mechanisms that wrinkles repair. For one, wrinkles are aided by an increase in nutrients. Injured skin, or wounds, require the opposite: Blood vessels constrict to reduce blood flow to the area for an extended period of time.
For another, though antioxidants may certainly aid in collagen production, wounds require infusions of macrophages, platelets, and clotting proteins (and a decrease in blood flow) to provide a precise nutrient environment for healing. Extra oxygenation over a certain threshold can be detrimental to wound healing and scar formation (hence bandages), while extra oxygenation is great for intact skin (ever notice how your skin glows after a run?)
I am not particularly a fan of Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel for scars, though it makes a fine serum otherwise.
Ingredients in Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel with Quercetin and Vitamin C: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Silica, Petrolatum, Quercetin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbic Acid, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Dimethicone.
Bottom Line
Paula Begoun has been a longtime inspiration for me and this post is in part due to her passion for educating consumers about the science behind beauty products. Here are my top picks from her line as well as bottom picks.
I highly recommend these Paula’s Choice products by Paula Begoun:
- Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid — all over for normal/oily skin types, and as an on-the-spot treatment on blackheads, enlarged pores, and acne for normal/dry types
- Paula’s Choice Resist Super Light Defense SPF 30 — amazing 13% zinc oxide formula for everyone!
- Paula’s Choice Clinical Retinol 1.0% — solid retinol product that yields results over time
I don’t particularly recommend the following products for these reasons:
- I don’t like any product to put benzoyl peroxide all over my face, so I don’t recommend Paula’s Choice Clear Strength Acne Treatment with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide, except as an on-the-spot treatment.
- I don’t believe wound/scar healing is the same as wrinkle repair, and I will not put vitamin E on a scar. So I don’t recommend Paula’s Choice Clinical Scar Treatment Gel. But I do like it as a regular anti-aging product.
As a lifelong fan of Paula Begoun, I’m super excited to tell you my honest opinions about her products! I hope this generates her some sales!
What are your thoughts? Let me know!
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