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What are the Best Products for Fine Lines and Wrinkles?

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Oh yes, I believe you get better with age. But I don’t necessarily believe that you need fine lines and wrinkles to go along with your wisdom. (Not too many of them, anyway!)

What Causes Skin Aging?

According to Susan C. Taylor, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and author of Rx for Brown Skin, there are four basic mechanisms of skin aging:
1.) genetic factors;
2.) telomere shortening and chromosomal alterations;
3.) free radical generation (in excess of free radicals necessary for normal metabolism);
4.) UV light-induced skin damage.

Each of these are discussed in more detail below.

Genetic factors that contribute to skin aging

In several lower species, genes that contribute to aging have been identified. It is believed that corresponding genes may play a role in aging of humans as well. For instance, studies in mice have shown that caloric restriction increases the life of the mice. For humans, caloric restriction has also been proposed to decrease contact dermatitis, free radical formation, and potentially preserve collagen.

Telomere shortening and chromosomal alterations

Telomeres are repeated patterns of DNA sequences (TTAGGG) found at the end of chromosomes. With each round of DNA replication, telomeres shorten. Older adults have shorter telomeres compared with younger adults and children; when telomeres reach a certain shortened length, the cell is no longer able to divide, and cell death occurs.

The telomere theory of aging is also supported by patients with Werner’s Syndrome, a rare disease in which aging is accelerated and telomeres shorten more quickly than for the general population.

Free radical generation

A free radical is an unstable molecule that damages surrounding molecules FutureDerm Diagram

The free radical theory of aging has existed since the 1950’s by Denham Harman. The theory essentially states that free radical processes cumulatively lead you to age. Free radical generating processes include UV exposure, environmental pollutants, and smoking, and also mandatory processes, like respiration and metabolism.

Because certain functions, like respiration and metabolism, are necessary to be alive, it is impossible to eradicate free radical production in the body completely. For this reason, it has been proposed by deGrey in Ending Aging that free radicals are a natural byproduct of life that should not necessarily be neutralized with antioxidants.

Spin Trap Antioxidant Phenyl Butyl Nitrone Skincare FutureDerm

If you can’t get rid of free radicals, one method to treat them is with spin traps. According to Dr. Jeannette Graf in Cosmetic Dermatology, newfound technologies like “spin traps” have been developed to eradicate only the rare free radicals that are created when an aberrant electron “spins” out of its orbit.

Another method is with antioxidants. As topical application results in about 33% maximal ingredient absorption according to this 2002 study by Briggs et. al., applying topical antioxidants and consuming them through the diet should have additive effects.

Vitamin C and E give electrons to free radicals diagram by FutureDerm

To maximize the benefit of topically applied antioxidants, use products with network antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10 and glutathione), and/or strong antioxidants, such as coffeeberry, idebenone, vitamin E and kinetin.

UV Radiation

UV radiation generates free radicals, which turn on matrix metalloproteinases (enzymes). In a 1996 study by Fisher et al., it was found that UV exposure increase MMPs (and hence collagen production) (Cosmetic Dermatology.)

Matrix metalloproteinase activity can be stopped in two ways. The first is to prevent their production. This is best done with a sunscreen with high UVB protection (UVB has been directly liked to MMP production by Fisher et al.) Fortunately, the best UVB protection is easy to find: look for the sunscreen with the highest sun protection factor (SPF), a direct measure of UVB protection.

 

The second method is to stop the degrading activities of the MMPs. According to Dr. Wexler, there are several substances that act as MMP inhibitors (MMPis): epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids. Research has shown all of these inhibit MMPs and increase TIMPs. 

Which Products are the Best for Treating Skin Aging?

Fortunately, it’s the twenty-first century, and wrinkle-fighting skin care products are almost as prevalent as men and women looking for solutions. Unfortunately, there are almost too many possibilities, which can be super confusing for consumers! Thankfully, I’ve done my research over the past decade and have found amazing products with retinoids, AHAs, vitamin C, vitamin E (and other antioxidants), peptides, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, and more! Here are my picks for the best products for fine lines and wrinkles:

Cleanser

Best Cleanser for Antiaging

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: Eve Lom Cleanser ($100.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). Eve Lom Cleanser is like the La Mer of cleansers, even more so than LaMer cleanser. (Bear with me here). With a ton of hydrators like mineral oil, lanolin oil, and other hydrating oils, Eve Lom Cleanser is a rich moisturizing cleanser that leaves skin soft — and wrinkles just a little less apparent. I promise. Full review

Best for Normal to Oily/Very Oily Skin: Boscia Detoxifying Black Cleanser. Brimming over with charcoal to draw out impurities and glycolic acid to increase cellular turnover, this no-nonsense cleanser gets rid of oil, dirt, and non-pustular acne, big-time. Full review

Daytime Antioxidant Serum

Best Daytime Antioxidant Serums for Antiaging

My vote for daytime antioxidant serum is, of course, one that contains at least 15% vitamin C and 2% vitamin E.

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: FutureDerm Vitamin CE Caffeic Serum ($89.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). I did formulate this serum myself, but I continue to recommend it for those with normal to dry skin because it really is the best one I’ve found. The serum has microencapsulated vitamin C, so it will not destabilize as readily in light, heat, and air. It has a light silicone base that those with normal to dry skin really love. Full review

Best for Normal to Oily Skin: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($100.99, Amazon.com). Despite the effort spent in creating our own, it’s hard to top Skinceuticals CE Ferulic for normal to oily skin. Its light, thin texture absorbs into the skin quickly, and won’t create any oil issues for those with normal to oily skin types. Definitely a must-have.

Daytime Moisturizer with Sunscreen or SPF

Best Daytime Moisturizer with SPF

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: NEOVA Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($39.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop) is one of my all-time favorite treatment products. This broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen contains some of my all-time favorite anti-agers, including vitamins C and E, sodium hyaluronate, and L-ergothionene (a potent antioxidant). Add in DNA repair enzymes that have been shown in promising preliminary studies to work, and you have yourself a winner! Full review

Best for Normal to Oily Skin: NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($48.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). On the one hand, it’s like, Whoa, this sunscreen is strong! You will likely get redness from it, and you may also be a little sore afterwards. So why do I love it? After about a week’s use, it leaves the skin feeling incredibly soft and smooth. I recommend it only for oily/resistant skin types, though; you need a tough skin for this one!

Best for Sensitive Skin: LaRoche Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid ($35.60, FutureDerm.com/Shop) This lightweight sunscreen provides SPF 60, but without harsh chemicals like oxybenzone or avobenzone that can disrupt sensitive skin types. The lotion drinks into the skin quickly and provides lightweight protection all day.

Nighttime Treatment Serums (use with Retinoid)

Best Nighttime Treatment Serums (use with retinoid)

 

If getting rid of wrinkles is your aim, the first thing you want to do is apply a retinoid. I recommend either a prescription retinoid, or our own FutureDerm Time-Release Retinol 0.5 before applying any of the following:

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: Apothederm Firming Serum ($75.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). Formulated with two patented peptides, hydrators, and a fermentation by-product (Thermus ferment), Apothederm Firming Serum helps to toughen up loose, lax, sagging skin. Like most firming agents, it takes a few weeks of regular use to notice real results, but it does work, in my opinion.

Best for Normal to Oily Skin: Your Best Face Boost ($65.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). Formulated with some of the best and hardest-to-find ingredients out there, including Homeostatine, Renovage, Leucidal, niacinamide, and Your Best Face’s characteristic spin traps, this is a must-have for persons with oily/acne-prone skin who also want to fight fine lines and wrinkles.  Full Review

Nighttime Treatment Serums (non-Retinoid)

Nighttime Serum No Retinoid

If you want to stay away from retinoids for any reason (i.e., pregnant, nursing, etc.), try the following:

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: AminoGenesis AGE Control Serum ($50, ControlYourAge.com). Wrinkles aren’t only caused by UV damage and inflammation leading to less collagen formation (or damaged collagen formation). Glycation, the hardening and aging of collagen, also plays a role. This serum may take down glycation levels and restore your skin’s amino acid levels, leaving it firmer, softer, and smoother. Full review

Best for Normal to Oily Skin: MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, and rough skin. Warning: This is strong. It’s best if started once/week, like a potent retinoid, and then you work up every other night.

Nighttime Moisturizer (Normal to Dry Skin Only)

Best Nighttime Moisturizer for Dry Skin

Best for Normal to Dry Skin: Davi Skin Care Le Grand Cru ($185.00, DaviSkin.com). I have tried many, many skin care creams in the past decade or so. But none is as luxurious or as skin-softening as this one has been; I am not one to save skin care creams, as they lose potency, but I keep this in my medicine cabinet and apply it any time my skin gets reddened or irritated from trying another product. It is incredibly hydrating and works extremely well. Just a small drop goes a long way.

Eye Cream

Best Eye Cream

I treat undereye skin in two steps:

Your Best Face Correct ($150.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). YBF is a very ingredient-conscious brand, and it shows in how many times I’ve recommended their products here! Your Best Face Correct Eye Cream is one of my all-time favorite products.  It brightens and firms the undereye skin, and reduces undereye puffiness.  It is also likely to somewhat reduce dark circles that are caused by pigmentation with its lightening ingredients, as well as dark circles that are caused by blood pooling. It’s extremely rare to get both!

I follow with AQ Skin Solutions Eye Serum ($99.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). AQ Skin Solutions knocked it out of the park with this miraculous serum. (Yes, I said “miraculous.” On a science of beauty blog. But bare with me). Human growth factors from a refined cell culture line truly make this product stand out. And according to the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, topically-applied human growth factors may be beneficial in reducing signs of skin aging due to their capacity in promoting skin cell turnover, and increasing the production of skin proteins, including collagens. I’m thrilled with this product!

Exfoliant

Best Anti Aging Exfoliants Sensitive Skin

Best for Non-Sensitive Skin: ($82.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop). NOT to be used more than once per week, and NOT to be used with retinoids or additional AHAs, these pads work. The two-step process will exfoliate and refine your skin, leaving fine lines and wrinkles appearing less apparent.

Best for Sensitive Skin: LARA Beauty Microexfoliating Scrub ($40.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop) This scrub is one of my all-time favorite products. It is lightweight, with very small granules, which helps to exfoliate the skin. Truly a must-have. I use it once or twice a week to keep my skin feeling fresh after trying, like, waaaay too many products all of the time!

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Nicki Zevola is the founder and editor-in-chief of FutureDerm.com. Named one of the top 30 beauty bloggers in the world by Konector.com since 2009, Nicki

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