Dear Nicki,
I had a doctor peel around 15 months ago and it left me with a burn and now hyperpigmented mark on my nasal fold. I am of Asian/Italian descent and have recently started using Lancer products and also used Medik8 vitamin c/spf 50+ etc and have had numerous treatments since the peel but the hyperpigmentation (and now those left by spots) are taking ages to go. Any thoughts? -S
Dear S,
Ah, the dreaded post-procedural hyperpigmentation, also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmention (PiH). It all starts out so innocent: You go to the derm or aesthetician, expecting beautified skin. And for a few days, you look better — younger, more glowy, more “clean”. And then, somehow, little marks start to appear.
Those little marks are usually common in those with darker skin tones. You mentioned you’re of Asian/Mediterranean descent — my background is Korean, and I too experience these spots. The root cause of PiH is increased melanin production. Melanin is the pigment that defines the color of a person’s skin and the increase in melanin is triggered by the way skin heals after inflammation or injury (Eucerin).
Treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation at home is two-parted: First, you want to treat the spots. And secondly, you want to keep the spots well-protected while they are healing.
To treat the spots, I recommend the following regimen for daytime:
- Glycolic acid cleanser directly on the spot. I like [easyazon_link identifier=”B000PHVTVC” locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]Mario Badescu Glycolic Foaming Cleanser[/easyazon_link].
- Day serum. I recommend the FutureDerm Custom Day Serum with:
- 15% vitamin C
- 2% vitamin E
- 0.75% coenzyme Q10 (coenzyme Q10 works in the same antioxidant pathway as vitamins C and E, and may help to strengthen its abilities)
- 8% argireline
- 2-5% glycolic acid (depending on your skin sensitivity)
- 0.75% licorice extract
- 4% kojic acid
- 2% arbutin
- Sunscreen of SPF 50 with zinc oxide or titanium oxide — you do NOT want to use chemical sunscreen, as the heat will be absorbed in your skin, and may exacerbate the spots. I like [easyazon_link identifier=”B00YHMQDC6″ locale=”US” tag=”cosmeticswiki-20″]TiZo 3 Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40[/easyazon_link] currently.
And for nighttime:
- Glycolic acid serum. I recommend the FutureDerm Customizable Night Serum with:
- 4% niacinamide
- 8% argireline
- 4% kojic acid
- 1.5% hydroquinone IF your skin is not medium or darker
- Moisturizer. I recommend the FutureDerm Customizable Moisturizer with:
- 4% niacinamide
- 4% hyaluronic acid (not a lightening agent, but skin can get dehydrated from all of the lightening agents!)
- 8% argireline
- 2% Haloxyl
- 4% kojic acid
- 2% arbutin
That’s the treatment. To keep skin well-protected, you want to wear a hat with a UPF of 50+ (Coolibar has great ones), wear sunscreen indoors (I’m sorry, but indoor lights can emit UV as well), stay out of the sun as much as possible, and avoid sources of heat like saunas.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Nicki