One of my favorite aspects about FutureDerm is the fact that we have some of the smartest, savviest readers around. So after we put our brand-new FutureDerm Vitamin CE Caffeic Serum on pre-order, we were inundated with e-mails and comments asking us why we have the vitamin C in an open top bottle with an eyedropper.
In case you don’t know, the concern is due to the fact that L-ascorbic acid and other antioxidants can become oxidized upon prolonged exposure to light or air. You can know whether or not your clear or white L-ascorbic acid serum has oxidized by whether or not it has turned brown or has an unusual smell. Many manufacturers will disguise this somewhat with a yellow/orange coloring or citrus scent, but it is still detectable to the discerning eye.
Sometimes people think that vitamin C that has turned brown can damage the skin, but this is not true. Each molecule of vitamin C contains two electrons available for use. When the first is used, the resulting molecule actually becomes more stable than other free radicals and can serve as a free-radical scavenger. After loss of the second electron, the resulting oxidation product is called dehydroascorbic acid. In turn, dehydroascorbic acid can be regenerated within the skin, or may decay and be inactive (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003). So no damage, even after oxidation.
Nevertheless, you don’t have to worry as much about oxidation with FutureDerm Vitamin CE Caffeic Serum. There are actually a couple of reasons why we still chose to put our vitamin C in an open-top bottle with an eyedropper:
1.) Our L-ascorbic acid is microencapsulated.
Unlike most other brands with L-ascorbic acid, ours is microencapsulated. As with our retinol, microencapsulation with L-ascorbic acid results in greater stability to light, heat, and air than with non-microencapsulated L-ascorbic acid (Journal of Microencapsulation, 2001; International Journal of Food Chemistry, 1991).
2.) L-ascorbic acid gets sticky (and clogs up) a pump.
Many of our readers wanted to see our L-ascorbic acid in a bottle with an airtight pump. This is a great line of thinking – after all, such a pump would prevent oxidation. Unfortunately, to have our serum be concentrated with 16% vitamin C (8% microencapsulated L-ascorbic acid, 8% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate), 2% vitamin E, and antioxidant caffeic acid (a potent antioxidant), we found the concentrated solution built up inside a pump, and actually clogged it over time.
3.) Our solution is different.
Most vitamin CE serums have an alcohol base. However, ours is a unique matrix of the slip agents dimethicone and cyclomethicone that serve two purposes: One, it leaves the skin soft to the touch and ready for a BB cream, sunscreen, or moisturizer/foundation with sunscreen to be applied next; two, it arranges in a lattice on the skin that still enables the active ingredients to reach the skin. This delivery system, however, also makes it better for an open top bottle with an eyedropper.
Bottom Line
We listen to your input and we tried to put the concentrated solution in an airtight pump. But in order to maintain the integrity of ingredients and the performance of the delivery system, we found that the open top bottle with an eyedropper was actually the best.
What are your other questions on FutureDerm CE Caffeic Serum? We’d be happy to answer them in future posts!
