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I love luxury and upscale clothes and accessories – don’t even get me started on my Diane von Furstenberg obsession – but I’m usually the first to tell you that expensive skin care items aren’t worth it 80-90% of the time. Unfortunately for your wallet, Peter Thomas Roth’s Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum ($150.00, Amazon.com) is one of those rare instances when it is actually worth it. Here’s why:
High concentration of 15 different peptides
Peptides are unique because they have been shown to increase collagen production when applied nightly to the skin in sufficient concentrations (Cosmeceutical Peptides, 2007). The interesting thing about using peptides is that the effects are gradual, but over the course of 2-3 months, you will notice increased firmness to your skin – especially when peptides are as abundant as in Peter Thomas Roth’s Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum.
Of the peptides included, palmitoyl pentapeptide has more research on it than any other, at least in topically-applied form. Also known as Matrixyl 3000®, palmitoyl pentapeptide been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins, which include types I and II collagen and fibronectin. In a 2005 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, palmitoyl pentapeptide was found to significantly improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as overall moisturization levels, with twice-daily use. Given that this was 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left–right randomized clinical study, it’s one of the best I’ve read regarding peptides to date.
Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum also contains the firming peptide palmitoyl oligopeptide. What I love about palmitoyl oligopeptide is that it significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means significantly firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).
Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum also contains acetyl hexapeptide-8 and acetyl hexapeptide-30. A patented form of acetyl hexapeptide is acetyl hexapeptide-3, also known as argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), which was shown in a 2002 study to reduce wrinkle depth by 30% when it was injected into the skin, similar to BotoxTM. Argireline works on the same muscle-to-nerve connections as BotoxTM, which makes sense, given that it is actually a shortened peptide sequence of BotoxTM. Unfortunately, it has not been shown that topically-applied argireline has these effects, nor has it been shown that acetyl hexapeptide-30 or acetyl hexapeptide-8 have these effects. So not all of the peptides in Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum are top-notch in terms of research backing, but it still manages to contain just about all of those that are.
If you have dry skin, sodium hyaluronate is a nothing short of a godsend. Sodium hyaluronate is a particularly effective hydrating ingredient because it is effective in both high and low humidity conditions (Borba Age-Defying Skin Balance Water). As hyaluronic acid, it can bind water up to 1000 times its volume; however, sodium hyaluronate is more stable than hyaluronic acid, and so is more commonly found in skin care products. The sodium hyaluronate in Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum is present in significant enough concentration to hydrate dry skin well.
Vitamins C and E, and a Compatible Form of Retinol
If you read the FutureDerm blog often enough, you know I love vitamins C and E and retinol. Vitamins C and E are network antioxidants, meaning that they are capable of forming a system together, helping to “borrow” electrons from one another. This strengthens the antioxidant capacity of each of the ingredients. In high concentration (higher than found in Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum), vitamins C and E have also been found to increase the power of sunscreen four-fold (Acta Dermato-venearologica, 1998).
Retinoids are also a gold standard of anti-aging in cosmetics and skin care, found to fight everything from fine lines and wrinkles to sagging skin to mild hyperpigmentation. I normally do not like to use retinoids with vitamin C for the simple fact that retinol undergoes esterification at a high, basic pH, whereas vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid is, well, acidic. However, in Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum, each ingredient is attached to a fatty acid group (palmitate), which not only makes the ingredients more gentle to the skin, but also makes them more pH-compatible.
Don’t get me wrong – normally I’m looking to get the biggest bang for the buck from my retinol, vitamin C, and vitamin E. However, the true beauty of Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum comes from the peptides, and so including the milder, compatible forms of vitamins A, C, and E is actually a great choice on the behalf of the Peter Thomas Roth company.
Overall Use and Opinions
Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum is sticky and tacky on the skin, so many may find it difficult to use in the morning or under make-up. For fastest results, use it twice daily. Make it a point to wash your face and apply it immediately upon wakening, wait 20-30 minutes, and then apply your sunscreen and cosmetics. If you cannot find the time to do this in the morning, then apply a thin layer of Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum to your face only at night. It will take longer to get the firming results with once-daily application, but it’s still better than not using it at all.
Other than the sticky texture, Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum is a dream product, one of the best sources of collagen-stimulating peptides I have seen on the market. It makes a really great addition to use after a retinol serum at night for a one-two punch against skin sagging. I love it, and I’d recommend it to anyone who asks!
Product Rating: 9/10 (High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value: 2/3. Sunscreen or sunscreen-boosting ingredients: 1/1).
Ingredients in Un-Wrinkle Turbo Face Serum
Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Propanediol, Alcohol Denat., Squalene, Tetrapeptide-17, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-30, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-25, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Acetylaringyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Isopropyl Myristate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Gluconolactone, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Carbomer, Dextran, Triethanolamine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Red 33 (Ci 17200).